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2007 European Bike Tour

Here I have reproduced the blog I kept while I was on my self-supported European bike tour from Amsterdam to Switzerland and the travelling I did before and after. The original is kept on my blog at http://henrythehorrible.blogspot.com.

The Netherlands | The Hague to Bonn |  Bonn to Karlsruhe | Karlsruhe to Basel | Italy

11/11/08 Here's an email I recently wrote to a friend who is planning a similar trip:

Sorry for the delayed response but I could probably write a book on this topic.

The first thing I would suggest is to take a look at my blog from when I went on the trip: http://www.hhhyde.com/bikes/euro.html

Then familiarize yourself with Sheldon Brown's site (lots of great bike and touring info): http://sheldonbrown.com/

The first thing to do is decide where you want to ride. I'd recommend anywhere in Western Europe for your first ride because the bike paths are safe, well-signed, and well-separated from automobiles and you can normally find someone that speaks English if you get in a serious bind. You'll also want a relatively flat ride because you will be carrying alot of stuff (~60lbs in my case). Following a major river like the Rhine, Danube, or Elbe will keep your route flat and obvious (in case you get lost, which you will).

Once you've decided where you want to ride, you'll want to get the maps way ahead of time so you can make a general tour plan. I found my maps here: http://www.omnimap.com/. They were written in German, but still the most important part of my setup (besides the bike of course). I rode about 40-80km per day, averaging around 60km. I did a little over 700 miles in 13 days. When I made my tour plan I picked cities along the Rhine that were about 50km apart and just connected the dots. Things went almost entirely to plan. The maps showed whether or not the cities had a hostel in them. Sometimes finding the hostel was a bit of a challenge, but I brought a laptop with me. I was normally able to find a wireless signal once I got into town to google for the hostel location.

You'll also need to decide when to travel. I would recommend the early fall (I rode in October). You DO NOT want to be touring during any of the major European holidays. Since I rode in the off season, I got away without planning anything ahead of time. I just strolled into a town and found a cheap bed without any problems (I mostly stayed in hostels, but the occasional cheap hotel as well). You can also camp, but if you're riding in Europe, it's much more interesting to stay in the old cities and mingle with the common folk and see the sites. The camp sites are generally located far outside the cities and they cost 2/3 as much as a night in a hostel anyway. However, for my next long bike trip (I'm thinking across northern Africa) I will probably try camping instead.

After you decide when, where, and how, then you'll need to pick your equipment. I recommend a steel framed bike (more comfortable for longer distances than aluminum or carbon fiber - I was on an aluminum frame and it was a bit harsh). Take a look at the Surly lineup for inexpensive options, like the Crosscheck and Long Haul Trucker (http://www.surlybikes.com/bikes.html). You'll want a triple chainring in the front (not a double) to maximize gearing options. Other necessary touring accessories: a map holder that clamps onto your handlebars, front and rear fenders, a Brooks saddle (http://www.brooksengland.com/), a rear light, maybe inline brake levers (so you can sit upright and have brake levers), and maybe adjustable touring handlebars (again so you can have more sitting options for those long days - just clamping some old bar ends on your handlebars can provide the same functionality). You'll definitely want to be using clipless pedals as well.

You'll also need to decide whether you want to use panniers or a trailer for carrying your stuff (I don't support and won't talk about "credit card touring", that is, having someone drive your stuff from place to place - you will be "self-supported" tourer or not a tourer at all). My opinion is that panniers suck (but they're cheaper). Panniers make your bike top heavy and are more difficult to pack and unpack. With a trailer, you can just roll into a city, disconnect the trailer at your hostel, and then easily go "normal biking" around the town. There are two trailers that I would recommend: the Bob Yak (http://www.bobgear.com/trailers/trailer.php?product_id=10) or the Koolstop Wilderbeast (http://www.koolstop.com/trailers/beast.html). The Wilderbeast is less expensive, has a higher load rating, and folds up for easy storage and transportation. The Bob Yak has better craftsmanship, is lighter, and has a superior system for attaching to your frame. I used the Wilderbeast because I found one cheap on Craigslist. I would definitely like to try the Yak at some point though (it looks like they've also increased the load rating). A load of anything more than 50lbs is pretty unwieldy so that's the max load I'd shoot for.

Once you have the equipment, you need to figure out what to bring. The temperature and weather in October was absolutely perfect for riding. I biked in shorts and a long sleeved t-shirt. I also had my fleece, gloves, a water proof jacket and pants, a hat, one or two pairs of underwear, one regular pair of shoes and pants, one or two regular shirts, one pair of sandals, riding shoes, helmet, cable lock, two pairs of riding socks, a sleeping bag, my bike bag (more on that later), a multi-tool, chain lube (I lubed every day in the morning), an extra tube, a tube patch kit, and some other horseshit I didn't need. I think that's mostly what I brought. It adds up though. You'll also be carrying water (I used a camelbak, but water bottles would've been easier) and food for lunch and snacks (I'd eat breakfast and dinner in the cities where I stayed.

Now, you get to worry about travel. Carrying a bike around airports and public transportation absolutely sucks, but there's nothing than can be done. People will make nasty faces when you get in their way or hold up the train, but, whatever, they're harmless Euro's. I used a Rome bike bag (http://www.bikebags.com/travelbag.html) because it could be folded up and carried with me (I was doing a point to point, not round trip). My bike did get scratched and slightly dented (I saw the French baggage man drop the whole thing of out the airplane 10 feet down onto the concrete runway when he couldn't fit it down the conveyor belt). There's nothing you can do about the damage. You can get one of those hard travel cases (very expensive), but then what do you do with it once you get to your starting point? You can also try shipping your bike over (also expensive), but where do you ship it to? You can also rent a bike over there, but I didn't have much luck figuring out how to do that from the US. All the airlines have their own special fee for taking a bike with you. International flights are anywhere from $free-250 just for your bike. You'll want to check ahead of time with whatever airline you're flying. It's highway robbery. I didn't pay anything on the way over, but spent ~$100 on the way back.

Man, I think that's about all for now. I'd recommend getting travel insurance as well. I think I paid $50 for the month I was traveling and that covered all my equipment and any medical expenses.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Tripp

Sunday, September 30, 2007


# posted by Tripp : 5:12 PM
I haven't posted here in ages, but I'm going on a bit of a bike tour and I'm going to use the blog for updates on my trip. I will be starting near Rotterdam (in the Netherlands) and then following the Rhine through Germany and France all the way to Basel, Switzerland. After that I'll be spending some time in Italy with my uncle. Stay tuned for updates.

Tuesday, October 02, 2007


# posted by Tripp : 6:19 PM
The proposed route - Interactive Google Map. This is more or less what the route would be if you were driving, but I will be following the Rhine so it will be a little different. However, I will be stopping in each of those towns for the night.



Something like: Rotterdam, Netherlands->Zaltbommel->Nijmegen->Xanten, Germany->Duisburg->Dusseldorf->Cologne->
Bonn/Bad Honnef->Koblenz->Mainz->Worms->Karlsruhe->Strasbourg, France->Breisach->Basel, Switzerland. It should be around 600 miles in all.

After this I'm meeting my uncle north of Milan for a couple of weeks in Italy (including Sicily).

Friday, October 05, 2007


# posted by Tripp : 7:30 PM
So I arrived in Amsterdam today. The flight was pretty uneventful although I did sit next to a very talkative Indian man who thought that Barack Obama would not make a good president because 90% of America's prisons are black (the actual figure is closer to 50%). Anyway, I arrived here around 7:30AM and took the train to The Hague. I discovered pretty quickly that a 50lb bike bag on one shoulder and 45lb duffle on the other is rather uncomfortable. Rather than taking the trams to Craig's place I just made a 10 minute bike ride from the station. It was pretty easy.

We said hello and Craig took off for work. I then showered and took a much-needed nap (said Indian man didn't seem to mind talking to someone who was "asleep"). I then went for a ride for a few hours to check out the city. It's an interesting place and very flat which makes for great riding. It's also about 7 feet above sea level which makes for great danger of slipping off the road into a dike (dijk). I got lost in the dunes to the north of the city and barely found my bike before dark. Came back, showered, and went for dinner with Craig. Certainly a nice welcome and it's not even raining!

Tomorrow I'll take more pictures of the area, but here are two choice pics from today:


Bike all packed up and ready to ride to Craig's from the train station.


Yep, Lookout!

Saturday, October 06, 2007


# posted by Tripp : 1:57 PM
The weather was once again spectacular. It was bright and sunny and in the 60's. Perfect. We started the day off by getting the delicious uitsmijter breakfast. It's ham and eggs and cheese over warm, fresh bread. Then we wandered around the city looking for a useful bike store where I purchased some fenders and giant bike map holder. My bike is looking more and more like the Bianchenstien we all know it is.

Craig and I then took our bikes up to the town of Scheveningen where the North Sea beaches are. (Apparently, the Dutch used the word "Scheveningen" during World War II to tell if a German spy was posing as a Dutchman - only those born and raised in teh Netherlands can properly pronounce it. I would most certainly fail the test.) It's really quite beautiful although I'm pretty sure the water is freezing. We rode along the beach and then through the vegetated dunes near Wassenaar and then back to the Hague. It was around 20 miles. Hopefully I'll be able to upload and display the GPS track of these bike trips, but that will be for later.

Now for some of the days photos:


Craig's apartment is the white building, right across from...


the Dutch Parliament.


Bicycling in the dunes.


Again, the glorious Dutch Parliament which you can ride your bike through...


And, the picturesque American Embassy. A little overkill, no?


# posted by Tripp : 10:20 PM
Craig and I went to the bars. We went to a place where there were copious euro-mullets. Craig touched one. Here is a picture of a euro-mullet in its natural environment:

Sunday, October 07, 2007


# posted by Tripp : 5:54 PM
Today was another beautiful day in Holland. Craig and I took the train up to Amsterdam and spent the day on a Mike's Bike Tour. Our guide (Sean) was super knowledgeable and I learned a great deal about the Netherlands. For example, did you know that that both gin (from England) and vodka (from Russia) were derived from a Dutch spirit called genever? Or, did you know that the reason the Dutch apartments are so tall and skinny is because the Dutch used to be taxed on only the square footage of a building's footprint? Anyway, we saw a bunch of Amsterdam, including the canals, the Amstel river, a 300 year old windmill, a clog and cheese factory, and a banana-hammocked 60-something man doing hanging gymnastics from a rope in the middle of a plaza (I decided no to take any pictures as I don't want to blind you readers). Here are the pictures of the day...


Craig on the bike tour. I'll do a post dedicated to just biking around here as it really is something special.


Your average Amsterdam street. Can you see the beams and hooks at the top of every building's eave? They use those for hoisting furniture up into the incredibly skinny apartments.


Here's our bike tour group in front of the old windmill along the Amstel. Craig and I are on the left.


This is an ancient sign post reminding the merchants who use to come into Amsterdam up the Amstel to go straight to the city center to be taxed on their goods.


The third apartment down all the way on the left is famous for holding John Lennon and Yoko Ono during their "bed-in". We were even able to read Lennon's writing on the window ("Hair Peace Bed Peace"). Click here for a higher resolution where you too may be able to make out the writing.


One of the few outdoor Van Gogh pieces. This resides in the inner-city's Vondelpark.


Here's one of Amsterdam's many buildings that's sinking into the silt the city is built on. Some interesting wood framing keeps this building from sinking even deeper.


Finally, one of Amsterdam's public urinals along one of the canals. Napolean installed these during his brief rule of Amsterdam because he thought it was disgusting that people kept urinating into the canals. Craig and I performed a field test. They worked well but smelled pretty awful.

The Netherlands | The Hague to Bonn |  Bonn to Karlsruhe | Karlsruhe to Basel | Italy